A small set of well-chosen tools handles most household jobs: hanging a picture, tightening a loose hinge, assembling flat-pack furniture, fixing a dripping tap washer or draining a blocked sink trap. You do not need a garage full of equipment. About fifteen basic tools, kept together and in good condition, will cover the majority of what comes up in an ordinary home.
This guide is for people setting up their first home, students moving into a rented flat, or anyone who keeps borrowing a neighbor's screwdriver. You will learn which tools to buy first and what each is for, which safety gear to add, how to store everything, and where the line sits between a simple fix and a job for a qualified professional.
The core tool list
The table groups essentials by purpose. The right-hand column gives a typical household use, so you can judge what you actually need.
| Tool | What it does | Typical use at home |
|---|---|---|
| Tape measure (about 5 m / 16 ft) | Measures length | Furniture fit, shelf spacing, curtain rails |
| Spirit level (about 40-60 cm) | Shows whether a surface is level or vertical | Shelves, picture frames, curtain poles |
| Screwdrivers (flat and cross-head, several sizes) | Drive and remove screws | Flat-pack furniture, hinges, battery covers |
| Claw hammer | Drives and removes nails, taps things into place | Hanging pictures, light repairs |
| Pliers (combination and long-nose) | Grip, bend and cut thin wire | Holding small parts, straightening bent items |
| Adjustable wrench | Turns nuts and bolts of various sizes | Tap connections, bike repairs, furniture |
| Hex keys (Allen keys) | Turn hexagonal screws | Flat-pack furniture, bicycles |
| Utility knife | Cuts card, tape, carpet, packaging | Opening boxes, trimming materials |
| Hand saw (small, fine-toothed) | Cuts wood and plastic | Trimming battens, small craft cuts |
| Cordless drill/driver with bits | Drills holes, drives screws quickly | Shelves, curtain rails, assembly |
| Stud/wall detector (optional) | Indicates hidden objects behind plaster | Checking for pipes or cables before drilling |
| Sandpaper, sanding block | Smooths surfaces | Doors that stick, small paint prep jobs |
| Adhesive tape, cable ties, assorted fixings | General fastening | Tidying cables, temporary fixes |
Fixings such as screws, wall plugs, picture hooks and nails are as important as the tools. Keep a small labeled box of assorted sizes, and match the fixing to your wall type. Plasterboard (drywall), brick, concrete and timber each need different fixings, and a shop assistant or the packaging will tell you which suits which.
What to buy first
Not everything needs to be bought at once. A sensible order, based on how often each tool gets used:
- Tape measure, screwdrivers, hex keys and a utility knife. These handle assembly and daily tasks.
- Hammer, pliers, adjustable wrench and spirit level. These cover repairs, hanging and tightening.
- Cordless drill/driver with a basic bit set. This is the single biggest time saver, but only worth buying once you know you will use it.
- Hand saw, sanding block, torch (flashlight) and a stud or pipe detector. Add these as jobs demand them.
Cheap tools can be fine for occasional use, but poor-quality screwdriver tips and wrench jaws wear out or slip, which can damage screws and injure your hand. For tools used often or under force, such as wrenches and pliers, it is worth paying a little more. Compare tools by materials and build, not by how many pieces come in a box.
Choosing a drill
A corded drill has constant power. A cordless drill is more convenient, and for ordinary household jobs it is usually the better choice. Look at battery capacity and voltage, a clutch (the adjustable ring that stops the screw being driven too far), and a chuck that tightens by hand. Consider whether the battery system is shared across other tools you may later buy.
Safety gear
Tool safety starts with protecting yourself. The US Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) guidance on hand and power tools stresses using the right tool for the job, inspecting tools before use, removing damaged tools from service, and wearing eye protection and gloves where needed. The same principles apply at home.
Basic safety kit:
- Safety glasses or goggles: for hammering, drilling, sawing, sanding and chiseling. Everyday spectacles are not a substitute.
- Work gloves: for handling rough timber, sharp edges and demolition. Do not wear gloves near rotating tools such as drills, where they can catch.
- Dust mask or respirator: for sanding and sawing. Check that the rating suits the dust. Old paint may contain lead in many countries, so do not sand it without checking first.
- Hearing protection: for long sessions with noisy power tools.
- First aid kit: for cuts, splinters and burns, kept where you work.
- Sturdy shoes: closed footwear, since dropped tools hurt.
Safe habits matter as much as equipment:
- Cut away from your body, and keep your other hand clear of the blade.
- Use clamps or a vice to hold work instead of your hand.
- Check a hammer's handle for splits and the head for tightness. OSHA notes that loose or cracked handles can let the head fly off.
- Replace wrenches with sprung jaws, and never use a chisel as a screwdriver, because the tip can break.
- Keep blades sharp. A dull blade needs more force and slips more easily.
- Tie back long hair and avoid loose sleeves around power tools.
Store and maintain your tools
Tools last for decades if you keep them dry, clean and together.
- Choose one home. A toolbox, a bag or a shelf in a closet. A tool you cannot find is a tool you will rebuy.
- Keep moisture away. Damp causes rust. Wipe metal tools after use, and in humid climates add silica gel packets to the box.
- Protect blades and bits. Cover blade edges and keep drill bits in a case or index.
- Return tools after each job. It takes seconds and prevents losses.
- Store batteries indoors at moderate temperature, and follow the maker's guidance on charging.
- Keep sharp tools and small parts out of children's reach, for instance in a latched box.
A worked example: hanging a shelf
Say you want to fix a shelf to a wall. The sequence uses five basic tools and shows how they work together.
- Measure the height and mark the position with a pencil using the tape measure.
- Level the line using the spirit level, then mark hole positions.
- Check the wall with a detector or by following the building's known cable and pipe routes. Avoid drilling directly above or below sockets and switches, where cables commonly run.
- Drill holes with the right bit size for your wall plugs, wearing safety glasses and a dust mask.
- Fix the plugs, align the bracket and drive the screws with a screwdriver or the drill set to a low clutch setting.
- Check the shelf is level, then load it lightly first.
If you are unsure what is inside the wall, or the wall is unusual, stop and ask someone experienced.
When to call a professional
Some jobs are not suited to a home tool kit, no matter how well equipped you are.
- Electrical work. Energy Safe Victoria, a regulator in Australia, calls electrical DIY dangerous even for small jobs such as swapping a switch or power point, and says to always use a licensed electrician. Rules differ between countries, and in some places homeowners may do limited work. Check your local regulator before you attempt anything.
- Gas appliances and pipes. Leaks and carbon monoxide are life-threatening. Use a registered gas engineer or technician.
- Structural changes. Removing or cutting load-bearing walls, chimneys or roof timbers needs a qualified professional and, often, permits.
- Asbestos or lead. Older buildings may contain these. Do not disturb suspect material. Contact a specialist.
- Roof and height work. Falls cause serious injuries. Hire help.
- Rented homes. Check your lease or ask the landlord before drilling, painting or modifying fixtures.
Common mistakes
- Buying a giant kit. Many pieces are rarely used and are poor quality.
- Using the wrong tool. A screwdriver as a chisel or pliers as a hammer damages the tool and risks injury.
- Skipping eye protection. Eye injuries happen in seconds.
- Drilling blind. Check for cables and pipes first.
- Over-tightening. Stripped screw heads and cracked fittings are common results.
- Leaving tools out. Damp and dust shorten their life.
For a project that uses these basics, see starting a vegetable garden in containers, which needs a drill and a few simple supports.
Frequently asked questions
How much should I spend on a first tool kit?
Spend according to use. Choose better quality for tools that take force, like pliers and wrenches, and cheaper options for items you will use rarely. Prices vary widely by country and shop, so compare a few before you buy.
Do I need a drill?
Not at first. Screwdrivers handle most assembly. A drill becomes valuable once you hang shelves, curtain rails or mirrors, or do projects in masonry or timber.
Should I buy metric or imperial tools?
Most of the world uses metric sizes, and metric tools suit most furniture and appliances sold there. In the US, some items use inch sizes. Adjustable wrenches and combination sets cover both, and the packaging shows what you are buying.
Is it safe to use second-hand tools?
Often yes, if you inspect them: look for cracks, loose heads, rust pits and damaged cords. Electrical tools with damaged cables or housings should be replaced.
Next steps
- List the last five repairs or assembly jobs you needed a tool for, and match them to the core list above.
- Buy the first group of tools, plus safety glasses and a dust mask, and a box to keep them in.
- Add a small labeled box of assorted screws, wall plugs and nails.
- Look up your local rules on electrical and gas work, and save the number of a qualified tradesperson.